Barb,
I don't know of any follow-ups but I would sure be interested. I stop fertilizing each Summer just when it seems the palms are growing well. I would love an excuse to keep 'em growing.
--Erik

I wouldn't dare fertilize in fall.

But...if palms are different, as the article says, maybe the technique could be used on palms in barely-heated enclosures.
I wonder if they'd be too "tired", though, to grow in the summer.

Obviously something for the scientists/researchers...just won't nominate my 33+ year old Trachy for the experiment.

Barb

Good info-however,I think this is a more effective technique in warmer areas.
By about Nov here(sometimes late,sometimes earlier)the soil temp dips below 50(F)which is the temp(4" down)that I have noticed my palms
begin to wake up/go to sleep.Why waste the fertilizer,as he says they don't use it past a certain temp.
I usually fertilize for the last time in late Sept/early Oct with potassium and epsom salts.
These results can be modified as in the case of good old Bill and his heating cables,using them changes the game significantly!

as in the case of good old Bill and his heating cables,using them changes the game significantly!

maybe also a heated hut large enough that surrounding soil never dips below 50F?

Heaven forbid, though, if the power goes out!

Barb

PS--here's a Seattle WA site that recommends fertilizing in Spring and Fall. 😯
http://www.palmsnorthwest.com/

I usually fertilize for the last time in late Sept/early Oct

Maybe I've been too conservative. I stop fertilizing in August despite soil temps that stay warm a lot longer than up in Iowa. What do you all think?
--Erik

Palms will be hardier in the winter in they are fed optimum levels of a balanced fertilizer during the growing season. Where I live, Aug-Oct yields the most growth which requires the most nutrients. During this time, I apply the heaviest fertilizer. When the temperature falls, palm growth slows. When the temperatures fall below 50F (daytime), the plants require very little nutrients which means that fertilizer only needs to be applied very lightly if at all.

By applying the optimal amount of nutrients late in the growing season, you keep the plant healthy which increases its ability to take on adverse weather. As long as you are not applying excessive amounts of nutrients, the growth from the palms will not be weaker than the growth produced during the summer. This is commonly confused since plants like Oaks, Maples etc. go dormant. Fall fertilization can cause these plants to start growing again, weakening them against cooler temperatures. Palms don't go dormant.

Erik
You could probably go later but I would move away from ferts high in N

Barb
You could do that but you would need to put some tyvek/styrofoam down about 2 feet in the soil
to provide a thermal break.
My question is why?
Your palm is not receiving enough light(I'm guessing) to put out the growth you would want.

My palms in their clear umbrella g-houses don't move at all,maybe in a warmer winter like we had before the last three winters.
FYI-My large g-house* being 10' across and 25' long stays around(4" down)42-44(F) the smaller ones are in the 34-37(F) range.

Thanks! I'll do that this coming late Summer/early Fall. --Erik

A few inaccuracies in that article. Also, he is talking about growing palms in zone 9b in which the number of hours below freezing are very limited. In colder zones temperatures drop and are unable to photosynthesize therefore N is not necessary in the fall and winter for palms in the ground. K deficient leaves get worse late in the year as new growth struggles to find sufficient nutrients. Therefore, a late summer to early fall application of k-mag is a good idea, particularly if one's palms are showing a deficiency.

I agree Steve,I noticed that too-this guy lives in a warm area and is talking about 2-3F increase in hardiness
in temps of 26-30f..

That does not come close to being enough for my palms (Trachys,Sabals etc) which will see some single digits!

I also believe newer growth IS more cold resistant to a point because it is more elastic but at the
point the spear pulls this is irrelevant.

The leaves that are always in the best shape on mine are the ones that are mature/not the oldest
and not the youngest but the ones in their prime 😀

These would be the leaves that are not pointing up still(petioles) and not pointing down,
the ones that have 'recently dropped down for business,2-3 o'clock,t be specific 😕

I've brought warm-winter palms into the house.

Based on this topic, and since palms "don't go dormant", I'm thinking to keep fertilizing Bottle Palm, Triangles, etc. as though it was summer.
Anybody tried this?

I mist them daily anyway, the only "iffy" factor is light levels.

What do you guys think?
Barb

I'm not really into the fall fertilizing idea since most of it wouldn't get absorbed anyways like Steve said. K mag is a great product to use in fall, plus it eliminates the need for epsom salt.

As for winter fert inside, I do it at half power with liquid mix. It's always worked fine for me.

Bill

Why half power?
Palms are warm, soil is warm, they don't go dormant, so...why not full strength like it was summer?

I'm just trying to get my head around this...I used to always wait until February to start fertilizing again, when daylight is a bit longer and there's more sun coming in the window.

But I want them to grow more than they have been...

I've always done like Barb and waited to do any fertilizing until day length increases.
I'll be nursing some not-so-healthy palms this winter and will use lights. Maybe fertilizer, too?