Gave mine light last winter. Giving mine light again this winter. How do you plan on wrapping it?

I would really like to just close it off with insulation board no light accept c-9s and leave the top accessible to check on it now and again. The walls have to be at least 10 feet already. If I cut all the leaves off it wouldn't be that bad but they won't grow back in time I don't think to regain enough mass. Next winter might be a different story it it grows five feet.

Bill

When Trachys are overwintered like this they can be kept at a very low temp(30-35ish),almost like hibernating,I am not sure how a Washy would react to that.It may need to be kept closer to 50F.My needle palms were kept in a leaf cage all winter (mid Nov-mid March)and seemed all right.Iowa palms had his almost totally sealed from light but he did remove all but 1-2 leaves.The question is how would your leaves hold up? Can they readjust and be open for business again in spring.I may try a leaf cage for my Tetrapanex and Y.aloifolia and leave all the leaves on-

I'm going to have to cut some of the leaves off there is no way around it, there's no way to stuff them all in the encloser. I could always incorporate some windows Not a big deal just more time. I didn't think they would do great with no light but I just figured I would ask. Scott also wanted to know the same info as he will be overwintering his too.

Bill

Bill I would keep it as close to natural conditions as possible. Desert palm trees need light and IMO so does every palm during the winter in an enclosure. They don`t stop growing during the winter months photosynthesis is still occurring. I use the same method of protection as wxman 2x2 wood frame with clear plastic to let in the light. Another advantage of this method is you can take a look at how the palm is doing during the cold snaps. I have only overwintered Trachy`s and
needle palms so I`m real interested what overwinter method you choose and how well they do. My 15 gal Washy`s are about the size I think are large enough to plant next spring. JMO

John

So I've kina decided Bill to enclose three sides with insulation as well as the top. I think if one side (east side) of the box was only covered with a few layers of plastic it would let in light and not let out too much heat. If all four sides were only covered in plastic it would let out too much heat and cost a lot on your electrict bill.

I picked up a small space heater today. 60 bucks. It has a programable thermostat, breaker switch if it overheats. I'll attach the link so you can have a look at it.. I'm going to place it inside the box and set it at 50 like Jim suggested..

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/3/HouseHome/1/HeatingAirConditioning/PortableBaseboardHeaters.jsp

Go to page two and it's the second one down on the left.. Noma

FWIW this year I have plastic enclosure with foam board screwed over top. I will be removing the panels on the S and W exposures during the day and screwing them back on at night. No sense to have exposed plastic at night when it's dark. Will be more labor intensive but SAVE on heating bills.

That would be the most effective way to do it for sure to save money on electric. I wish I could do it like that but I can't see my self taking the boards on and off everyday. You have a advantage there with your palms being so close to your house.

Bill

Got any old windows laying around Bill? You could open and close on warm days.
If you want to save on heating bills the space heaters you guys are talking about are insanely expensive,You can also save money by not needing to heat during the day,
taking advantage of the sun.
I just want to mention again that I used a heater like (the same one)wx is using,for a 20'x5' 10'"hoophouse"it is expensive.
The heater is here in this picture,can you find it?
<a href=" " target="_blank"><img src=" " border="0" alt="Chill'in"></a>

Back to saving money-x-mas lights,$7 at Wal-mart 5wts per bulb,each bulb warms to 105F(inside-room temp)25 bulbs per strand

<a href=" " target="_blank"><img src=" " border="0" alt="T.wag/S.brazoria"></a>

I used as many as 30 or so in my single layer G-house umbrellas for my Trachys
<a href=" " target="_blank"><img src=" " border="0" alt="toasty t.fort 3-2-09"></a>

I only needed 4-7 bulbs in my Washy and other styro containers
<a href=" " target="_blank"><img src=" " border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

3 bulbs kept the temp 25-30F warmer in the styro contaiers

<a href=" " target="_blank"><img src=" " border="0" alt="12-5-08"></a>

<a href=" " target="_blank"><img src=" " border="0" alt="12-5-08"></a>

Jim,

Yes the heater will be expensive for an enclosure that size because it not insulated with R-7.6 and its huge! The heater has a thermostat, so it will cycle in my enclosure and it will probably be OFF more than ON. Heat loss is directly related to how expensive heating is. Look at how big our homes are and how inexpensive it is to heat them. Imagine our house covered with just plastic and see how well that heats.

Great questions. I was thinking the same thing. Also, I'm worried about how our winters here go from one extreme to the other. It can be in the upper teens one day, then two days later up to 70.

I think if you insulate well and take advantage of the sun during the day the heating should be reasonable from a space heater. The one I purchased says it has "energy saving features", we'll see... As for c-9 lights. I don't believe we can get them in canada any longer. Everything as gone LED here... I was also thinking that some black lanscape fabric on the roof could atttact sun to the enclosure and help heat during the day. Everyone is talking about using foam insulation, I was thinking of getting the pink stuff and wrapping in in plastic, like you would see in an unfinished basement.. Thoughts??

The pink insulation would be fine Scott. I think the space heater might be unnecassary, I'm sure you can get the old style c9s somewhere. But by all means do what's most comfortable for you. Black anything is a good idea to gain heat.

Bill

Trachys are pretty easy really.The challenge as you guys know is with something like a Washy that is temp sensitive.
I like my single layer plastic for Trachys because I know it's performance,I'm also around my house in the afternoon and before it gets dark during winter.With that said,I would like to mention if you really insulate and are going to let sun in the problem is heat build up.When I first set up my larger um-g-house(the one in the third picture)I used a 125wt spot for heat but when the temps went below 0F I added a layer of plastic over it,as I recall I think it added 10F or so at night,during the day was a different story.The temp outside was 0F and sunny,with the extra layer of plastic on the umbrella g-house the temp went to 80F inside it! 80F bump in temp.This is why I like the single layer of plastic for Trachys,it's a little harder to heat but I get a bump of only 30F(in the sun) or so during the dead of winter,so when it's above freezing I just open the flaps.My Trachys had no problem or damage from single digits for short periods once they adjusted.The one in the pic I mentioned was to big for it's enclosure so the leaves touching the plastic burned,it also was not watered enough,so it did have a rough winter.
My plan is to give these less protection as they get better established,Trachys once hardened off to winter are really amazingly cold tolerant!
I think the main thing is to keep frost off them so you don't get moisture buildup in the crown combined with repeated freezing.
Wxman really did an amazing job protecting his Washy last winter with all it's leaves,we should have awards for great examples of protection and success.Growing a Washy this far north is nothing short of amazing!