Oh, I see that now, the airport is further inland than I thought when I first checked. The data that I posted was form the government data recordings from the airport weather station. I suppose it is possible that the town did not get below -40C during that freeze... I don't think there is a downtown weather station though... Too bad, it would be good to see how the airport lows compare. Luckily here in T.O. there is a downtown weather station to compare to Pearson airport. The airport is about 8km away from the lake shore, and can be as much as 1-1.5C warmer than the island airport. But, I should also mention that the island airport generally has open water beside it to moderate the temperatures. The urban heat-island effect is lessened when there is ice on the lake. Remember too, that even if the city hasn't hit -40C this decade, it did before, and it can again. I know that my area has hit -34/5 C before, and in extremes could again.

Like I said, don't put too much faith in microclimates, this can and does lead to disappointment.

Does anyone there grow Magnolia? I know that some can take serious cold, and there is a good collection in zone 4 Ottawa.
Just so we can compare:

Tbay:
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Maximum -8 -5 0 9 16 21 24 23 17 11 2 -5
Minimum -20 -19 -11 -2 2 7 11 10 5 0 -6 -16
Mean -14 -12 -5 3 9 14 18 16 11 5 -2 -10

Kingston:
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Maximum -3 -2 3 10 16 21 25 24 20 13 7 0
Minimum -12 -11 -5 1 7 12 16 15 11 5 0 -8
Mean -7 -6 0 6 12 17 20 20 15 9 3 -3

Toronto:
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Maximum 0 0 4 10 16 22 25 24 20 13 7 1
Minimum -7 -6 -2 3 8 13 16 16 13 7 2 -4
Mean -4 -3 1 6 12 17 21 20 16 10 5 -1

Paul is right on about the zone B.S.
You could have z8b low temps but if you stay there all winter every palm would die except the odd Trachy/Needle/Sabal-odd
meaning 1-3 live out of 10 at best.
The best advice for people in zones without severe cold (as in low,low temps) is to use a cover and heat it so you can create several
days during cold cloudy weather where the temp is above freezing,say 50-60(F) range.
Or you can shut them down in full protection(leaf cages,etc)and add a bulb or 2 to keep lethal freeze away.

Raising the temps during the day is a approach I learned looking at John in Colorados data.

I try to keep my palms in a range from 10-90(F)
those are maxes

15-20 and 50-60(F) lows,highs- is better!

Hey paul.. i can help you with tha tbamboo.. 100% canadian grown!! and shipped!
http://www.bambooworld.com/bamboo%20catalogue.htm

hey, canadian plant, is that link YOUR company?
You've got a nursery?????

Hey, everybodeeeeee, we've died and gone to heaven!

😀
Barb

Nooo lucky i wish.... but it has LOTs of great bamboo

Oh, OK, coming back down now... 😆 😆

Barb

Hey- Most (though not all) of my bamboo have come from that company. If you're going to order from them in future, get the biggest size you can afford. With the challenges of climate up here, the small ones will take years to get established. I've only received one dead plant from them, which, unfortunately, was Arundinaria gigantea. I've actually tried to order several clones online and none have arrived in good condition, maybe it doesn't travel well. I've never received any replacement. If you need suggestions, or have questions about their products don't hesitate to pm me. Oh, and their hardiness ratings should be interpreted as top-kill temps in most cases. Some of the temperatures they list, if unmulched plants are exposed to them (and no snow) will actually kill the bamboo, especially new plants, outright. FYI.

A good, and honest site, for bamboo growers is needmore bamboo. http://www.needmorebamboo.com/ . The nursery is in Indiana, so no good for plants for us, but is a valuable (HONEST) source.

A note on my Trachycarpus experiments. The plant I have was totally top-killed, spear pulled, and still (after 4 years) hasn't regained its former size. It is of no ornamental value. It's protected now with frost cloth and mulch. Despite some reports, in the east this species will be top killed at prolonged temps below about -15C, and young plants can be killed if exposed to that temp. A more in-depth experiment will begin this year. I'll be testing T. fortunei protection methods AND whether or not fungicide actually does anything (i.e. whether the palm will send up a new spear anyway without the need for fungicide). This will be akin to what Dr. Francko tried to do while at Miami Ohio.

Good luck with that.
I have never had a healthy* palm not come back but I have always treated with fungicide.

Good luck with that.
I have never had a healthy* palm not come back but I have always treated with fungicide.

Like I said Jim, we all use fungicide to "save our palms", but what if the palms are actually saving themselves? I'd like to test that and make sure that the $ I've invested in fungicide has been well spent.

I read something years ago. Someone build a makeshift greenhouse around sensitive plants. They then had 2 or 3 steel drums ( like oil drums) filld with water, insulated, and painted back. They then set up mirrors or reflect the sunlight ( therefore making it oncentrated) and pointed it at the drums. Apperantly this created enough heat to keep them alive.

I read something years ago. Someone build a makeshift greenhouse around sensitive plants. They then had 2 or 3 steel drums ( like oil drums) filld with water, insulated, and painted back. They then set up mirrors or reflect the sunlight ( therefore making it oncentrated) and pointed it at the drums. Apperantly this created enough heat to keep them alive.

I've heard of this method too. I don't think it would work well this far north (without additional heat sources) because when the average (not the low) temperature in our areas is well below freezing. So, overnight that amount of water could easily freeze and with the day time temps being below zero, even with the plastic and a sunny day, forget about a cloudy day, it would be difficult to melt or warm (much) the water. It could work with additional heating added to the water, and would actually probably be quite effective.

Remember the average temperature in Tbay in January is -14C, and there are 5 months when the average temp is below 0. I hope I don't sound too negative all the time, I just want you to be successful... And, like I said, your reliable snow is a major bonus... It was almost -18C here the other night and with no snow the freeze is getting deep into the ground. Ugh!

Here are a few useful links for some of the 'hard-to-find stuff':
http://www.nettlecreeknursery.com/ - Run by Mike and Marian Little, a couple of knowledgeable plant people.
http://www.rhodolandnursery.com/ - Run by Jack and Jackie Looye. Not sure if they mail-order or not. Jack has an encyclopedic knowledge of Rhodo's and could probably give you some suggestions for plants that may survive in Tbay... And they may have R. 'Sandra Hinton' which I would recommend you try.
http://www.colesflorist.ca/hardy.php - Cole's, a Canadian source for hardy palms, etc. Tony Post is the guy to talk to there. He's been instrumental in bringing hardy palms to Canada, particularly to Ontario.
Tony's Blog: http://niagaratropicals.blogspot.com/ -Really let's you know how incredible the microclimate in Niagara is... I mean, Spanish Moss in Ontario? For 5 years? Unprotected... Wow.
Hortico- http://www.hortico.com/ - They carry a lot of different plants. I've ordered from them before. Decent plants, nothing special. They do have Gunnera for a good price...

NO your not being negative.... i want realistc feedback........

THanks for the suggestions.... THe great thing is...... we tend to get lots of sun in the winter... so if the plants are under plastic... they usualy should get to 0C or above during the day. ( theoretical here). And from what ive read.... as long as there is a BIG rebound in temps..... that can make all the difference ( which is why i belive youve had so much success)

THanks for the input..

lots of sun in the winter... so if the plants are under plastic.

Temps can soar under plastic, but I'm sure someone already said that here.
Barb

Alright ladies and gents.... here is an early list of this that i have, or am thinking about planting this year:

Well, I got some things so far..... I got a feeling of an early spring... 😀 Thee are all seeds :

Castor Bean - I really like this plant, but im a bit leary, cause of how toxic it is, and I have a dog here once in a while.... not to mention crows, ravens, and squirrels

Morning GLory - For flowers I actualy like these. Strong fast growing vines......
Lupin - perennial, tropical looking folliage, big flower tops to abour 36 inches
Clematis "radar Love" - Clematis is hardy here, nice fast growing vine.....
Passiflora Cearulea - Hardy to zone 5 or 6. Fast growing, huge flowers, gonna keep one inside and a few out to try...
Pink Pampas Grass - hardy to zone 5 or 6. Gets 7 - 12 feet tall.....
Strawberry "patio temptation" - Theyre strawberries..... nuff said
Sunflower - classic.......
Colocasia (taro root) - Got it from the gorcery store...... Gotta try it...... known as elephant ear
Zingzibar officiinal - Common cooking ginger...... Not very showy leaves, but clumped realy add a tropical vibe......
Fargesia Rufa "green panda" - My original bamboo.... im going to be uncoverit it within th enext week, and put up a little "greenhouse" for it...... wish me luck..

Now as far as other plants go...... I am going to be ordering some bamboo..... here is the list of possibilities.......

Arundinaria gigantea ‘Macon’
Fargesia murielae
Fargesia scabrida
Hibanobambusa tranquillans shiroshima
Phyllostachys aureosulcata
Phyllostachys bissetii

Phyllostachys nigra ‘Hale’ (Hardy Black)
Phyllostachys nuda
Semiarundinaria fastuosa (Narihira Bamboo or Japanese Palm Bamboo)

Othere:

Musa 'Basjoo'

palm:
Sabal minor 'McCurtain' - said to be hardy to -25F
Rhapidophyllum Hystrix - probably the hardiest palm int he world... apperantly the trick is moisture......

Yucca:
Yucca rostrata

Others:
Hibiscus moscheutos
Canna Musafolia - dig up oand pot during winter
Gingo biliba
Wisteria - steal some of of my grandma..... muhahah try to make a tree....
Well thats my list so far........ all of the seeds are planted and purhased... all of the others below are possibilities 😀

Wow, that's one incredible list.
You'll be changing your avatar name to Gung Ho... 😆

R.hystrix...the trick is NO moisture, but I'm sure you know that.

Wouldn't worry about the Castor Bean, there are many many plants that--if eaten--are poisonous.
Puppies need to be watched carefully as they chew on everything, give him an old shoe 😕
Older dogs are usually pretty smart.

Our place has wild white-flowering morning glory that somehow comes up in the lawns.
You can have all ours. They're brutal for self seeding.

Hope you post some pics, especially the Fargesia when you expose it.

Cuttings from Wisteria usually don't bloom for approx 15 years; grafted wisteria can bloom as early as 5 years.

Good luck with the germination.
Barb